‘Exposure Eats’: a taste of my Indian culture

There are many different aspects of cultural identity, and one of the most notable – and to some, the most important – is food.

A great thing about living in a city as culturally diverse as London is the wide variety of delicacies on offer from countries across the globe. Indian food in particular is extremely popular, and its presence in the capital stretches back over 200 years.

Britain’s first Indian restaurant was opened in central London in 1810. Although it closed after a year due to lack of business, it indicates there was already a demand among the upper classes for authentic Indian cuisine.

During the early 19th century, herbs and spices from the Indian subcontinent – including cardamom, coriander, cumin, ginger and turmeric became more readily available in Britain.

Despite this, by the turn of the 20th century, Indian foods and flavours had fallen out of fashion in Britain.

However, the arrival of Indian immigrants from the 1950s onwards saw the establishment and growth of Indian restaurants. Owners and cooks had to adapt their dishes and service to suit British tastes.

This led to the evolution of modern Indian food as we know it, much of which was shaped in Britain. The tradition of the late night curry developed when Indian restaurant owners realised they could earn more money by staying open after pubs closed.

The umbrella term “curry” to describe any Indian dish involving herbs and spices was first used in a British cookbook in the 18th century. Some dishes that are firmly associated with Indian food were actually developed in Britain.

The most famous example of these is chicken tikka masala, which is thought to have been invented at a curry house in Glasgow in the 1970s. It’s so embedded in British culture that it was once described as “a true British national dish”.

In fact, a lot of quintessentially “Indian” food comes from other countries. Gulab jamun, a popular sweet made of deep-fried balls of dough dipped in sugary syrup, actually originated in the Mediterranean. Samosas are thought to have been a Middle Eastern import, and it’s thought that naan bread was brought to India by Persian settlers.

Growing up in a Sikh family, I’ve felt and seen the importance of food in Punjabi culture.

Every gurdwara (or Sikh temple) has a langar, a community kitchen where at breakfast, lunch and dinner, free meals are served to all the visitors, regardless of their race, religion or gender. This reflects the Sikh principle that all human beings are created equal.

The principle of the langar was taken to the streets of the capital in 2015, when the Sikh Welfare and Awareness Team (SWAT) began serving food to homeless Londoners.

It’s easy to see why over 200 years after it first came to London, Indian food has remained a culinary staple not just in the capital, but across the country. It’s the product of the mixture of loads of different cultures, it’s healthy, and above all, to many (including myself), it’s simply delicious.

Hope this has got you in the mood for Indian food. Try making some of these delicious and simple Indian vegan recipes or perhaps you’d prefer to try a quick and easy chicken tikka masala!

Arjan Arenas is currently studying for a BA History degree at Kings College, London. He has worked with Exposure since January 2018, and is particularly interested in history and politics, as well as books, film and television. Outside of his work with Exposure, Arjan has written reviews about theatre productions in London’s West End.
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